In Old Delhi, not far from Chandni Chowk, on roads plied only by cycle rickshaws and men and women on foot, there is a wonderful little set of alleyways that fork off from the already tight little streets.

It is here that my sister and I have come on an errand of the sort our parents now pretend to be too old to undertake, but which really it just amuses them to see the young busied with. And we complain, though we are happy enough to get out of the house and into the city.

Working our way in…