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From a letter written by C. Andrew Doyle, the ninth Episcopal bishop of the Diocese of Texas, to Will Shortz and Robyn Weintraub, constructors of New York Times crossword puzzles.

As an Episcopal bishop in Texas and a New York Times subscriber, it is not often that I may speak on behalf of all Texans. However, in this matter, I raise a loud shout on behalf of our people and from whence the term Tex-Mex originates.

In our state, an unlikely clash of Mexican and Texan cuisines brought forth the miraculous gift of Tex-Mex. The Tex-Mex food group includes tacos, but it does not include “taco sauce.” I bring this to your attention because in the New York Times crossword puzzle of Friday, December 29, 2023, the hint provided was “Tex-Mex condiment,” and the answer was “taco sauce.”

“Taco sauce” is a mixture of ketchup, mayo, and sometimes mustard, with a few spices. It’s never put on tacos. It may find its etymology within the original recipes of Emilio Carlos Ortega, who was, in 1897, the first person in California to make “Spanish Chili Sauce.” This then became the legendary “taco sauce.” So the condiment can’t be Tex-Mex, because it’s from California.

You both are much wiser than I am. I confess that doing one of your puzzles takes me thirty to forty minutes. You may indeed point out that salsa is translated into English as sauce. However, by doing so, you confuse Tex-Mex with Californian mestizo food, which deserves etymological respect.


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March 2024

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