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Description and travel

City of Gilt

In the early 1980s the Southwark side of the River Thames was a wasteland. It had a power station with a tower — a rude finger — for emphasis; you,…

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My Holy Land Vacation

i. stand with israelI listen to a lot of conservative talk radio. Confident masculine voices telling me the enemy is everywhere and victory is near — I often find it…

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Silent Majority

From Portraits, by John Berger, which was published last month by Verso. A contributing editor of Harper’s Magazine, Berger is the author of numerous books, including Ways of Seeing (1972).…

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Pakistan in Miniatures

Pakistan’s National College of Arts, a redbrick building pushed back from Lahore’s busy Mall Road, is a somehow pleasing Orientalist mash-up built in 1875 by Rudyard Kipling’s father. The central…

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The Quietest Place in the Universe

Rick Gaitskell and I first met over lunch in Deadwood, South Dakota, back in the summer of 2012. An astrophysicist who had quit investment banking because he found the mathematics…

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Rotten Ice

I first went to Greenland in 1993 to get above tree line. I’d been hit by lightning and was back on my feet after a long two-year recovery. Feeling claustrophobic,…

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“Today Is Better Than Tomorrow”

What makes Argia different from other cities is that it has earth instead of air. The streets are completely filled with dirt, clay packs the rooms to the ceiling .…

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October 2014